Christmas in Singapore

Location: Singapore, Singapore
NP: Inon Zur - Dragon Age 2 Main Theme
Mood: Indifferent

Hot (31 C), dry and bathed in sunlight... That is the Singaporean Christmas. There is quite a difference between this and home where it's -20 C, the days are 3.5 hours long and the ground covered with snow.

Chinatown celebrates Christmas with a tree.

They celebrate Christmas here. Obviously. But it mostly shows in increased shopping on Orchard and a few Christmas decorations here and there. It is like the plastic Christmas tree in front of a neon sign saying "Xmas sale. 15% off". With a dollar sign on top. Singaporean dollar.

Christmas at a mall in Marina Bay.

What is lacking is the feeling of serenity, of silence, the candles in the dark, and the snow that all combines to create an atmosphere of Christmas spirit, described by the silly Finnish word of "joulumieli". On Christmas, family here seems less important than in the West, while for the rest of the year it is the other way around.

Christmas decor on Orchard.

Two days ago, on the 25th, I spotted a cheery Santa downtown at Cafe Mosaic. Santa was prancing among the customers and handing out presents. I think it may have been a woman.

My Christmas dinner - Chicken curry with rice. And Tiger beer.

How different it is here, nearly half a world away from home, especially during this time of the year.

 

Information at a Price

Location: Singapore, Singapore
NP: In Flames - Goliaths Disarm Their Davids
Mood: Disappointed

I am currently reading Il nome della rosa or The Name of the Rose by Italian author Umberto Eco. It is a book in which there is a monastery famous for its vast library, filled with learned monks studying all manner of sciences. But once the protagonists reach the monastery, they find that access to the library and all its books is restricted. You need approval to study there, to borrow a book or to even browse the collection of learning.

The irony is, of course, that a place famous of its books restricts them, and in the end a single scholar is able to access perhaps no more or even less books than at a regular place of learning.

This, unfortunately, is how it is here in Singapore as well. Perhaps Singapore is not in particular known for its collection of books as the monastery is, but the restrictions placed on local libraries remain similar.

Studying not allowed. A sign within the National Library.

Singapore's National Library was somewhat of a disappointment. The building is huge and impressive, but the heart of it, where the books are, pales to the mighty exterior in both content and looks. For the public library you can gain access (after a security check) and browse the books, but the collection is relatively small, mostly focused on economy, self-help books and religion (as are the bookshops). Borrowing a book will cost over 50 SGD for a foreigner like me. For the price, you can buy a couple of books at the overpriced stores here.

The library of the National University of Singapore has similar restrictions, but you can't even browse the books on-site without paying at least a monthly fee of 21.40 SGD. That is for access-only membership (blue form). If I actually want to borrow a book from the library, god forbid, the cost was over 300 SGD for a year's membership (which was the minimum, if I'm not mistaken) for an external member like me. And that is only if I first apply for the membership and am approved in due course. Instant access by cash does not exist, as I found out by foolishly going there and, seeing the gates, asking.

In the words of Brother William of Baskerville in The Name of the Rose: “The good of a book lies in its being read. A book is made up of signs that speak of other signs, which in their turn speak of things. Without an eye to read them, a book contains signs that produce no concepts; therefore it is dumb. This library was perhaps born to save the books it houses, but now it lives to bury them. This is why it has become a sink of iniquity.”

It seems that even in this day and age, in a city as modern as Singapore in many ways is, information is still restricted, barred behind a price tag or worse.

Gates of the Chinese Library of National University of Singapore.

This is a difficult place, then, for a student such as myself, who prefers to use books for their authority over the Internet. Disappointed as I am, next time I'll haul my own books with me from back home.

On the Road Again

Location: Singapore, Singapore
NP: Guns n' Roses - Civil War
Mood: Expectant

The smell of durian fills the air. People keep treading back and forth on the corridor. On the tv an old woman claims she cannot sleep.

Yes, I am back on the road again, this time in Singapore, where I'll be staying for a month. My original plan was to remain here for three months, but unfortunately duty calls back to Finland early next year.

I'm jetlagged. This is my sixth day in Singapore and I still find it very difficult to sleep at night and stay awake during the day. This is especially difficult while staying at hostels where other guests are likely to disturb your sleep during the day.

A sign on a backdoor of ABC Hostel.

Singaporean tv certainly doesn't help. Overly simplified, naive characters in foreseeable plots. I'm being unfair. It could just be these two shows on channel 8 I've been staring tiredly at today. I think they're Chinese.

The colours of Bugis.

Switched to a hotel again today, although I enjoyed Woke Home Capsule Hostel far more than the other two hostels I've seen in Singapore. Much more privacy and the place was clean - too clean for cockroaches, which is surprising here.

My capsule at Woke Home Capsule Hostel.

I will be writing some on this trip, though mostly I'm supposed to study here. Travelling alone now but staying put in a single city for all this time. There's so much Singapore to be explored.

Locations for Your Enjoyment

Location: Singapore, Singapore
NP: Prodigy - Voodoo People
Mood: Reminiscent

For a long time now I meant to write down the locations we liked best on our three months trip in South-East Asia. Choosing these magical places was surprisingly easy. So here we go. These are the places YOU should visit, too, in no particular order.

1. Sihanoukville, Cambodia

Serendipity Beach, Sihanoukville.

A beautifully dispersed city in the midst of awesome beaches is a must see for those of us who enjoy proximity to water. Alas, you can get away from the shoreline should you stay in the center of the city, but why on earth would you? Sihanoukville offers tasty food, cheap prices, seclusion and a lazy way of life. Lacks a bit on the cultural side, though.

Dutch Square, Malacca.

2. Malacca, Malaysia

A sweet UNESCO World Heritage City, Melaka aka Malacca is a particularly fond place for us. Large yet quiet, Melaka has a particularly enticing Chinatown running along Jonker Street and the few blocks around it. The food in Melaka is absolutely delicious (go nonya, but don't shy away from the basic foreign dishes), some of the best I've tasted anywhere, and there's culture in the form of European & Peranakan buildings and signs of the earlier Malaccan sultanate. Beer and alcohol are, as Malaysia is an islamic country, unfortunately pricy. Go there for the food and the Chinatown.

Boat Quay, Singapore.

3. Singapore, Singapore

Modern, futuristic and strict, Singapore is a brush of fresh air - a welcome reprieve from the very different surrounding countries. It can be summed up with the word "nice", but that would hardly explain the vast complexity of social and cultural fusion of Singapore. Expensive but clean, strict but full of options, Singapore is the closest thing to home in South East Asia. Go there for the ultra-cool architecture and enjoy a little something for everyone in this massive city of lions.

Central Tower of Angkor Wat, Siem Reap.

4. Siem Reap, Cambodia

Rarely is a city so divided by a river, and all the better for it! On the other side is the center for the partygoing types and on the other a quiet, relaxing horde of habitats, restaurants and little shops. But the true attraction here, make no mistake about it, is the nearby Angkor Wat and the lesser temples and ruins that are being eaten alive by the jungle and the massive flocks of tourists that go there every day. Culture all the way, rarely is there so much of it about. It is still enjoyable, still not completely ruined by all the tourists, so go now and become a part of the problem, before it's too late.

These were not all of the locations we enjoyed on the trip, but they are the ones that are easy to place on the top of the list. Other possible places to name would've been Cha-Am, Thailand; Phnom Penh, Cambodia; Pattaya, Thailand and Koh Pha Ngan, Thailand. However, these places can not compete with the ones on the list.

Rooftops of Cha-Am, Thailand.

If one looks at the countries we visited, a surprising favourite jumps up immediately. Cambodia, of which I wouldn't have thought to have liked the most of all, is my personal favourite. It is definitely a country worth seeing. Yet, the city/location is more important than the country.

Rambo Restaurant at Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Pick the place you think you would like most due to the descriptions given, and you'll be sure to enjoy your journey in sunlight.

I only suggest you enjoy your journey for a length of time that exceeds the normal 2 weeks limit. It is the way to experience and learn little. Try a month (or more!) instead, and the rewards will become obvious.